Museo & Casa de Olga Costa & Jose Chavez Morado

Today we visited the Museo de Olga Costa-Jose Chavez Morado. Artists Costa & Chavez Morado shared a partnership of art and marriage. The museum is Costa and Chavez Morado’s former home and studio, which they donated to the city of Guanajuato, along with their art collection. On display is a rich collection of ceramics, (both pre-Hispanic and 20th Century local talavera), furniture, masks, textiles, and their own artworks. Across the courtyard, exhibitions of rotating contemporary art is shown. Learn more: Olga Costa & Jose Chavez Morado

To find the museum, one walks along the picturesque Rio Pastita, which parallels Calle Pastita in the Pastita Bario. Along the route is the old Colonial-era aqueduct. Costa and Chavez Morado converted a massive old well into their home and studio. Based on the shape of the back walls, I imagine the artists removed the original back part of the well to build additional walls and enlarge their living/studio space. This back area opens to lovely gardens and a spacious courtyard.

Ink drawing: old well beautifully converted to artists’ home & section of old aqueduct

A Sampling of Guanajuato Lamp Posts

Los postes de la lampera son en el estillo de Beaux Arts.

During Mexico’s Porfiriato period, the arts blossomed. Under Diaz, Guanajuato became known as the Paris of the New World. In Guanajuato, neoclassical architecture and ornamentation abound, as seen at Hildalgo market, Teatro Juarez, and Plaza de la Paz, among numerous other sites throughout the city. Along with the neoclassical architecture came corresponding ornamentation, including monuments, park benches, and street lights, all in the Beaux Arts style. A very good explanation of Porfirio Diaz, architecture, and the Beaux Arts can be found here: Porfiriato Architecture

Dragon lamp posts found in the small park on Paseo de la Presa just below the large park, Olla de la Presa.

Beaux Arts architecture and ornamentation is characterized by formal design and elaborate ornamentation. This is clearly seen in the surviving lamp posts found throughout Centro Historico, which appear in abundance with much diversity within the genre. Illustrated in ink are four different varieties.

Two examples found on Calle Cantarrana, (Singing Frog Street): wall mounted lamp post shows corresponding neoclassical architecture. Free standing lamp post has the same design elements as the dragon street light; it is easily seen how elements are varied to create the different themes.

In the preview illustration, one sees the deep sculptural relief of the cast iron on this very typical Guanajuato street lamp.

Last year I came across delightful street lamps in Tonala, Mexico fashioned after bees! See them here: Street Lights of Tonala

Enjoy Vidur Sahdev’s lovely poem: “Light a lamp for yourself tonight…”

Colorful Hillside

From above the classical theaters and baroque churches crammed within the labyrinthine alleyways of the city center, haphazard stacks of sherbet-colored houses rise along the hillsides in perfect disorganization…..Moon Guide to Guanajuato, p. 123 San Miguel de Allende, including Guanajuato & Queretaro, Julie Meade

This perfect description draws me to paint the city. Small watercolor 6″ x 9″ on Arches cold press watercolor block using my new Koi pocket field sketch box of pan watercolors and small travel brushes. The brushes and pan colors took some getting used too.

A Night at the Symphony

Una noche en la sinfonia, Teatro Juarez, Guanajuato……Viernes 2 de febrero, 2018

Every since seeing Guanajuato’s crown jewel, the Juarez Theater during my visit last year, I have been wanting to attend a performance. Friday night was the season opener for Orquesta Sinfonica de la Universidad de Guanajuato. The name is somewhat misleading, as it is not a student orchestra. It is Mexico’s most prestigious orchestra: a full symphonic orchestra with accomplished residential and invited international musicians, soloists, and conductors.

The neo-classical jewel was commissioned by President Porfirio Diaz, reflecting his opulent tastes. It features twelve Doric columns with brass capitals, supporting a cornice topped with a row of black stone muses. The ornate lamp posts illuminate the theatre in an elegant glow. The interior is every bit as spectacular as the exterior promises. The bar and lobby gleam with carved wood, stained glass, and precious metals. Heavily influenced by Moorish design, the Gran Salon Auditorio dazzles with elaborately carved wood and stucco relief, painted brilliant tones of red, blue, and gold.

Designed by Antonio Rivas Mercado, work began in 1873, finished in 1903, and inaugurated by Diaz in 1910 with a performance of Giuseppe Verdi’s Aida. (Pictured: Auditorium before the performance, as people were finding their seats). The 2018 Apertura de Temporada began with Johann Strauss, The Bat Overture. Sitting in sumptuous elegance with strains of classical harmonies washing over me, I felt I was transported in time, (and perhaps even place to nineteenth century Vienna). Next on the bill was Dvorak, Concert for Violin Opus 53, with invited soloist Karen Su. After intermission, the performance resumed with Gustav Mahler’s Symphony #1 in E Major, Titian. I was very moved by this innovative piece that continued to build through all four movements.

The performance was preceded by a lecture by the conductor, Roberto Beltran Zavala in the upstairs salon. The art nouveau salon is complemented by more neoclassical carved wood, gold, and marble architectural details. The floor is glass block, enhancing the airy, light-filled environment. It was the Art Nouveau Salon that inspired my collage, which appears in the preview above this post. Ink and ephemera from the night: playbill; theater ticket, bus ticket, & found-text.

Una Calle en la Zona Mineral

The narrow streets of Guanajuato invite exploration. Winding enticingly, they beckon me to see what is around the next bend. This street in in the neighborhood, Zona Mineral, the mineral zone. The mines are much farther up the mountain; I am not sure how this neighborhood got its name. Guanajuato mines still produce tons of silver and smaller amounts of gold. We came upon this street after visiting the Alhondiga de Granaditas. It is just up the street.

La Alhondiga de Granaditas was originally built as a granary, but only functioned about ten years in that capacity. It was the site of the original uprising led by Hidalgo for Mexican Independence on 28 September 1810. After the uprising, it went through many incarnations, before finally becoming a museum. Today one finds schools and streets named 28 Septiembre all over Mexico.

Ink drawing

City of Frogs, part 2

Inspired by the city with a plaza celebrating frogs and another plaza celebrating singers, and a street named “Singing Frog.”

Mixed media: ink, watercolor, collage

2017 drawings on Calle Cantarranas

Read the post: Calle Cantarrana #1

Read the post: Calle Canterranas #2