Mexico Travel Journal Winter 2017 p4

Lo de Marcos is a small beach community in the state of Nayarit.  Most residents are either farmers, fishermen, merchants, or work in the hospitality sectors, (food/lodging).  The town swells each fall when more than one thousand expats mostly from Canada arrive to spend October-March.  Population falls to under one thousand souls after the Canadians return home to qualify for their annual health care, and most others part time residents escape the torrid rainy season.

Lo de Marcos is a dusty town with a central plaza, a Catholic church, and pristine beach with dramatic waves.  Off the beaten track for tourists, it is quiet and friendly.  Like the rest of Mexico, its electrical wiring is rather chaotic.

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Lo de Marcos looking toward the main street and central plaza;  copyright Cheri Isgreen

Mexico Travel Journal Winter 2017 p3

After two nights in Puerto Vallarta, we packed our bags and arrived in front of the big Walmart, where the local buses collect passengers.  (Local buses do not use the bus station.  A PV city bus will take you to Walmart; then you wait for the Compostella buses  for points north.)  We needed the Compostela bus to Lo de Marcos, 1 1/2 hours north in the state of Nayarit.  Plenty of buses go to the popular surf town of Sayulita, but only a few go as far as Lo de Marcos and points north.  Our wait was over an hour, with the station conductor explaining, “the bus will be here at 11:40, “mas o menos;  horas mexicanas….”  The vendors set up their food stations and carts, and the patrons settled on benches.  With everyone joking and laughing, it reminded me of the Group W bench in Arlo Guthrie’s song, “Alice’s Restaurant.”  I pulled out my knitting and enjoyed the throng.

We boarded the bus about 15 minutes later than scheduled and after several stops in PV and Buserias, the bus was packed.  True to stereotype, the ride was humid, hot, bumpy, and noisy with many stops as it wound its way on the narrow coastal highway northward.  Finally at Sayulita, the bus nearly emptied, and air began to flow through the open windows.  30 minutes later, we were back in Lo de Marcos, where we had spent some idyllic weeks in ’14 & ’15.  After dropping luggage at our inn, we changed clothes and walked to the beach.  It was as if we had never left; we were welcomed by many local expats who remembered us from winters past.  Without making a phone call, we were reconnected to the community with plans for the next 3 days.

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Olivias, a seaside palapa restaurant on the beach is open long hours, even when the restaurants in town close for siesta.  The waves on the beach are dramatic, popular with paddle boarders and gringo dogs.

Mexico Travel Journal Winter 2017 p2

1/12/2017

After exploring the old city, (viejo Vallarta), we grabbed a table curbside, ordered a couple cerverzas, and pulled out our sketchbooks.  Gardens are everywhere in Mexico.  On the rooftops, they take the form of massed pots of geraniums and tropical greenery along the railings.  In choosing this subject, I was struck by how lush the fauna grows.  The jungle rises directly from the sea along the mountainsides.  In this sketch, you will notice the Wandering Jew vines growing right out of the brick and mortar.  Imagine such a phenomenon in arid Colorado!

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Mexico Travel Journal Winter 2017

One of the best ways I’ve discovered to record my travels is to carry a sketch book to capture my experiences.  I sketch with pencil, refine in ink, and sometimes paint a watercolor composition, so I prefer a sketchbook with “sized” paper in a heavyweight – at least 90 pounds.  For this past trip, I added collage to my entries.  Perhaps, I will do more collage in the future.

On January 9, Kurt and I flew from Denver to Puerto Vallarta.  We had to drive an extra two hours taking Cochetopa Pass to get over the Continental Divide, as snow, wind, and avalanches had closed all other avenues through the mountains.  Arriving in sunny Puerto Vallarta, warm temperatures and sunshine quickly restored me from suffering a winter head cold to my normal healthy self.

We stayed at the Hotel Belmar in Centro, Viejo Vallarta.  The hotel displays an extensive art collection of fine art prints on all five floors.  As artists, we immediately felt at home.  Hauling our luggage up 4 floors, our exertions  were rewarded with a magnificent street view.  Our room boasted French doors and a balcony that opened to the noisy, colorful, fragrant world that is Mexico.  Each night fireworks exploded in the sky just outside our doors!

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Here is the view from our balcony, room 31.  Many rooftops sprout casitas complete with gardens, patios, and laundry.  We were able to request the same room for our return 4 weeks later when we had reservations to fly home.

Preparations for Painting Trip in Mexico

My husband and I like to get away in the winter and focus on making art, rather than teaching or exhibiting.  This year we will spend 4 weeks in Old Mexico, drawing, painting, soaking in the sights and culture in the Baroque cities of Guanajuato and San Miguel de Allende, enjoying the rich craft traditions of Guadalajara, exploring Viejo Puerto Vallarta, and warming up along the beaches of Nayarit.

This week has been spent in preparation of being away from home for four weeks.  Well of course there are all those mundane things like getting reservations, arranging for a house sitter, and packing…….Then there’s the fun stuff: research and dreaming: looking at maps, watching travel vids on YouTube, networking with friends; shopping for the holes in my travel wardrobe; and preparing for making art-on-the-go.

As a painter of horses, flowers, gardens, etc, I also spent the past week brushing up on my perspective principles and skills.  The weather here has been really snowy, cold, etc, and my days have been taken with other prep chores, so I worked from photos in the evenings.  Making these drawings gave me time to acquaint myself with the environment I will be visiting, as well as revisit places from earlier travels.

This is a street scene from Guanajuato I found online.  From watching YouTube, I learned that Guanajuato is considered the “Gem of Mexico.”  It is built into the mountains in the state of Guanajuato during  Colonial times from an economy originally based on silver mining.  Guanajuato is a prosperous city with well-preserved neoclassical architecture featuring carved granite facades, soaring towers, archways, European-style plazas, and a network of winding cobblestone streets.  This pedestrian-friendly city has redirected the bulk of motor traffic below the city into the old mining tunnels.  in 1988, Guanajuato was designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.  I intend to find out more about these “chopped off” trees, which I found in all the videos and many photographs of the area.  What variety, why they are shaped this way, etc…..guanajuato

This street scene came up in my Guanajuato image search.  As I got into the drawing, I realized the shop signs were not in Spanish.  Unlikely to be Guanajuato; still good practice for perspective drawing.  My sketchbook page was small, and this scene had many characterizing details that I felt needed to be included, so I chose to unify the whole by working in value markers, rather than painting.street

With the sumptuous architecture and perhaps some questionable mountainous winter weather, drawing interiors will be profitable to practice as well.  I took this photo while visiting Fredericksburg, Texas last winter.  It is a charming, old-fashioned candy store.  You may notice the distortion of the paper, painted in a “dry media 80 lb” sketchbook.  The focal point is an M&M dispenser.  I imagine you choose the color blends you prefer and pay for the candy by the pound.  It looks rather like a coffee bean dispenser.candy

The last drawing is from an earlier trip last winter to visit my family on the West Coast of Florida.  My sister took me to a gelato shop.  The macaroon counter was amazing, with all the colors from the different macaroon flavors…..food coloring?  Like the candy store, I was drawn to the patterns of the geometric lineup of colorful shapes.  It was fun to play with the transparencies in the display while practicing perspective rules.macaroon

Show Sampler: Travel

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5″ x 7″ prints, framed in oak, taken from my Mexico sketch journal, pencil & ink.  $25 each

All images copyright Cheri Isgreen 2014

“Three Passions: Horses, Flowers, Travel”exhibition of new work by Cheri Isgreen.  Running through Sept 30, 2016 at the Blue Pig Gallery, Tuesday – Saturday, 10 am – 5:30 pm and Sunday – 10 am – 5:00 pm

101 W. 3rd Street, Palisade, CO 81526

(970) 464-4819